Breathtaking Alpine Scenery
Part 3 - Embracing Awesome.
It was all about checking boxes in Part 1 of this series recounting our motorcycle tour of the Alps, while Part 2 diplomatically described my emotional response to having zero control of the situation once we started rolling through Switzerland. Lesson learned? Be less like Walter and more like The Dude.
European Motorcycle Travelogue
As I explained in Part 1, there was a certain luxury in not having time constraints when planning our first European motorcycle tour. After a few years of passive research, it was time to commit. First, we chose August to tour the Alps for several reasons:
We were, after all, riding a beautiful German motorcycle in the Swiss, Italian and Austrian Alps, so why get worked up when there was breathtaking scenery to absorb? The only way to cleanse one’s soul is to embrace awesome, which Europe’s Alps offer in unlimited supply.
With my frustration relegated to the past and two eyes on the two glorious days ahead, we departed Thun running sweep, giving me not only a clear view of our rolling gang but a somewhat smug reassurance that with the yellow vest comes a bit of power.
More importantly, I felt transformed by the yellow vest, kicking up my riding confidence several notches out of necessity: we were tackling seven major Alpine passes in two days, with the six Swiss passes all over 6,900 feet elevation:
Susten Pass (7,411 feet); Furka Pass (7,975 feet); Nufenen Pass (8,130 feet); Gotthard Pass (6,909 feet); Flüela Pass (7,818 feet); and Ofen Pass (7,050 feet).
Despite bringing our heated gloves and vests, it was rarely cold enough to need them. A heat wave was making its way across Europe, providing dry roads on all but two of the 10 days we rode. As thermometers reached 105 degrees, we routinely dipped our bandanas in every town square fountain to stay cool.
Once into the groove, piloting our R 1250 GS into relentless switchbacks and hairpin turns became second nature. Like many riders I find turning left easier than right, especially after receiving smart advice from young Franck on scooching forward on the tank supermoto-style to add weight to the front wheel.
Departing the alpine village of Distentis on the third day, we had the Flüela Pass and Ofen Pass to conquer before arriving at the mighty Stelvio Pass (all 9,045 feet of it with 48 hairpins!).
Ride leader Michael knew we had a long day behind us, so he recommended checking into the hotel and ditching saddle bags before ascending the Stelvio. With heavy black and gray clouds obscuring the summit, Jean and Chris decided to remain in the village.
The rest of us donned our rain gear for the first time, and as the heavens opened and moisture drenched our helmets, gloves and tires, we began our climb. The weather deterred some pilgrims but not all; dozens of cyclists descended toward us in the lower reaches of the valley, sparing us having to share the road with limited visibility.
As a road cyclist and Giro d’Italia fan for decades, my throat and sphincter puckered a bit when I made the mistake of glancing at the summit after the clouds cleared for a moment. Not to be deterred from the harsh weather, our posse serpentined our way up the 29-mile Strada Statale 38 (SS38), greeted by a heavenly rainbow and a brief respite from the rain at the top. After all our preparation in California, it was an amazing experience to share with Brian.
Our tour organizers did an amazing job securing hotels with covered and close proximity parking, with only a few exceptions. Breakfasts were lavish, heavy on croissants, local cheeses and fancy coffee machines. Michael and Laurent enjoyed a ciggy whenever possible, while Jean was grabbing Swiss chocolates.
This international group was bonding bit by bit each day. We stopped frequently for photos, coffee and ciggies, getting to know each other. This would come in handy as the weather and hotel hospitality intensified once we entered Austria, stretching our resolve and challenging our stoicism as the miles rolled on.
Coming up next: Part 4 - It’s True About Italy.
Greetings from Switzerland! 😊 I enjoyed the posts about your tour in the Alps. I grew up here and I've been cruising in the Alps for decades... and still can't get enough. But I envy you... cruising in the Bay Area must be awesome (still a dream to come true for me).
So many memories! Anyone even thinking about going... GO!!